文/袁长渭
杭州古称钱塘，铜鉴湖曾经是钱塘泗乡历史上最大的湖泊，原来的湖面有好几平方公里。铜鉴湖的别名叫明圣湖、金牛湖和石湖，古籍中有众多记载。郦道元在《水经注》记载：“明圣湖在县南江侧。”《民国杭州府志》中说：“石湖，在定山南乡，石龙山下。汉时名明圣湖，宋时更名石湖，今名铜鉴湖。”《光绪杭县县志》记载：“铜鉴湖在昙山东南。湖周围约三四里许，水清澈，产鱼极肥。菱芡之利，不可胜计，秋莼尤佳，埒于湘湖。湖藏山腹，境极为邃……”张道的《定乡小识》专门考证：“《唐宋钱塘志》记载，明圣湖距县五十里许，濒江……”,并就此推论，在钱塘县，这样的湖只有铜鉴湖了。《定乡小识》还专门描述了铜鉴湖的美丽风景：“湖藏山腹，境绝幽邃，烟鸥雪鹭，伊轧唼呷。茶歌樵唱，激响晴波，红树青林，一川如画。”
铜鉴湖边有一个定南公馆，那是古代杭富路上的一个驿站，定南公馆边的解头山也叫公馆山，山边的村叫公馆村。《万历钱塘县志》记载：“石龙之东南为解头山，高三十丈，有解头寺，旁有定南公馆。”张道《定乡小识》亦有云：“公馆村，至宋时尤为士大夫往来憩息之所。康熙时尚设门役。今廨宇久废，唯其地沿称公馆也。”唐代诗人周匡物赶考路过铜鉴湖畔定南公馆小憩，写下了著名的《应举题钱塘公馆》：“万里茫茫天堑遥，秦王底事不安桥？钱塘江上无钱渡，又阻西兴两信潮。”
清代宰相父子董邦达和董诰系富阳新桐人，董邦达曾经在湖埠教过书，并且把董家的祖上安葬在姚家坞，据说是姚家坞杨梅垅的好风水庇佑了董氏家族，这就是湖埠十景之一“董坟松涛”的来由。
铜鉴湖畔有一座昙山，昙山上有一个清虚洞，理学祖师爷朱熹在人生的高光和低落时刻，曾两次率众弟子来此讲学，并且留下了在杭州仅有的朱熹石刻：“颓然见兹山，一一见天作。信手铭岩墙，所愿君勿凿。”清代文人胡敬《定乡杂著》有记：“仲晦（朱熹）铭传石上刻，数行蚀尽藓斓斑。青山一一天然在，只欠园亭似次山。”
铜鉴湖畔向日葵花田。Sun flower fields by the Tongjian Lake.
昙山上清虚洞里有一个棋盘石，钱塘泗乡还有相关的樵夫砍柴看仙人下棋忘归的民间故事。所以，清虚洞也叫仙人洞，昙山也叫棋盘山。
昙山的西北面是湖埠村。明朝时期，湖埠村有个读书人冯来聘，明万历二十八年举人，天启二年进士，官至山东道御史。其时，泗乡教育颇为发达，明末另有午山葛寅亮、双流陈之煌、浮山郑尚友也高中进士，光耀泗乡，史称“泗乡四才子”。区区泗乡，才子辈出，值得后人深思。
有不少家喻户晓的古代文人在这片人杰地灵的土地上留下千古名篇。
如杨万里曾游杨村盐场，宿于铜鉴湖之畔，见帆收烟升，波碎灯影，作《晨炊泊杨村》：“沙步未多远，里名还异原。对江穿野店，各路入深村。秋水乘新汲，春芽煮不浑。舟中争上岸，竹里有清樽。”诗里写到的沙步就是湖埠，也就是钱塘江边杨村的江滩；
春芽煮不浑的春芽，指的就是铜鉴湖畔的茶叶。
杭州知州范仲淹著《风水洞》：“神仙一去几千年，自遣秦人不得还。春尽桃花无觅处，空余流水到人间。”
在古代，铜鉴湖畔的道路是杭州城通往富阳的唯一官道，当年的白居易、苏东坡主政杭州时，常走此道去富阳，或者去云泉山风水洞、铜鉴湖和昙山会友赏景。
苏东坡游风水洞时，曾经下榻铜鉴湖畔定南公馆，写下了“追君直过定山村”“风岩水穴旧闻名，只隔山溪夜不行”“溪桥晓溜浮梅萼，知君系马岩花落”等诗句。“世上小儿夸疾走，如君相待今安有”，诗中这两句也成了后来苏东坡“乌台诗案”的重要罪证之一。
苏东坡经常来游览湖埠美景，宿于泗乡农家，对泗乡风土人情颇为了解，曾作《风水洞二禽》：“春山最好不归去，惭愧春禽解劝侬。”
白居易也曾逍遥于铜鉴湖风水洞边恩德寺，与高僧慧日禅师交好而不思归，写下：“云水埋藏恩德洞，簪裙束缚使君身。暂来不宿归州去，应被山呼作俗人。”白居易移官北国后，尚思湖埠之竹笋与铜鉴湖之莼鲈，“久为京洛客，此味常不足”“犹有鲈鱼莼菜兴，来春或拟往江东”，以志念想，堪比苏州张翰的“莼鲈之思”。
昙山脚下铜鉴湖有大片的西湖莼菜田，那是正宗的西湖莼菜产区，“铜鉴湖牌”莼菜曾经热销日本和韩国。西湖莼菜有着悠久历史，苏东坡和白居易都有诗纪念。苏东坡念念不忘西湖莼菜，于是写下：“若问三吴胜事，不唯千里莼羹。”白居易的“江南忆，最忆是杭州”，忆的不乏铜鉴湖莼菜。相传乾隆皇帝下江南，每到杭州都必以莼菜调羹进餐，并派人定期运回宫廷食用。
铜鉴湖之名的来由传说与魏徵有关。The origins of the name “Tongjian” Lake are said to be related with Wei Zheng.
铜鉴湖畔还盛产九曲红梅茶，因其色红香清如红梅，滋味甜醇，早在1886年就获得巴拿马世界博览会金奖，名气不逊于西湖龙井茶。
铜鉴湖之名的来历还可从唐太宗李世民和魏徵的关系说起。玄武门之变后，李世民当上了皇帝，也就成了唐太宗，开启了贞观之治。唐太宗是一个开明的皇帝，对特别有才的人不计前嫌，连原先太子李建成的幕僚魏徵都加以重用，就是一个明例。
在唐朝，魏徵的名声可谓很响亮，是一个敢于向皇帝直言进谏的人，无人能出其右，李世民视若珍宝。魏徵进谏的故事不计其数，甚至很多次搞得唐太宗李世民很没面子，但却能屡被重用，不仅说明魏徵遇上了明主李世民，更体现了李世民不一般的气量。
魏徵不给李世民面子，在史书上有记载，《西游记》里也有涉及，与铜鉴湖的传说有很大关联。相传袁守诚是一个半仙，长年在长安街头摆摊，能卜算上下五百年，人们都把他当作活神仙。一个打鱼人每天来请教长安城外泾河里打鱼时间和地点，袁守诚的卦都很准，打鱼人每天都能满载而归。时间一长，泾河老龙感到水族的生存受到了极大威胁，于是化作一个书生前来为难袁守诚。
泾河老龙给袁守诚出了一个题目，要求预测第二天的天气。袁守诚的卦象说是明日午时三刻，雨水“城内三寸、城外三尺”。泾河老龙急忙赶到天上，一查，确实如袁守诚所说无疑。为了为难袁守诚，泾河老龙私下做通了小兄弟雨神的工作，把下雨计划改成了“城外三寸，城内三尺”。一时，长安城内遭到了前所未有的水灾，许多老百姓的房屋被淹没，连城隍菩萨都被大水冲走了，城隍菩萨到玉皇大帝那里去喊冤告状。玉皇大帝一查，原来是雨神与泾河老龙合谋改了下雨计划，让长安百姓受难。玉皇大帝震怒，决定斩杀泾河老龙，监斩官就是铁面无私的魏徵。
铜鉴湖秋景。The Tongjian Lake in autumn.
传说泾河老龙与唐太宗李世民关系不错，就托唐太宗说情，唐太宗答应了。唐太宗心想，只要拖过了午时三刻的执刑时间，就能免掉泾河老龙的死罪。于是，唐太宗就摆下酒席宴请魏徵吃午饭，到了午时三刻，魏徵由于喝多了酒，醉倒在酒席上。看着酒醉睡着的魏徵就在自己的眼皮子底下，哪儿也去不了，这下唐太宗悬着的心也放了下来。但是，意想不到的事情还是发生了，魏徵不买唐太宗的账，而是在梦中监斩了泾河老龙。
被斩的泾河老龙受到极大委屈，经常出现在唐太宗的梦中，唐太宗感到有愧于泾河老龙，于是就有了唐僧西天取经超度泾河老龙的故事。
传闻又说泾河老龙被斩杀后，化作一片沙土，就是现在的钱塘沙，也就是钱塘泗乡。这就是钱塘泗乡老百姓口口相传的“斩掉泾河老龙，涨起钱塘沙”这一故事的来历。
由于钱塘江边涨出大片沙丘，云泉山和公馆山连在了一起，山脚下形成了一个平静如镜的湖泊。史书记载，此湖有金牛出没，故叫金牛湖，也叫明圣湖。因为地处石龙山下，还有别名石湖。
唐太宗励精政道，虚心纳谏，对魏徵倍加敬重。魏徵也进谏如故，君臣合璧，相得益彰，终于开创了大唐“贞观之治”的辉煌盛世。
魏徵去世后，唐太宗感到非常悲痛，感叹说 ：“以铜为鉴，可正衣冠；
以史为鉴，可知兴替；
以人为鉴，可知得失。今魏徵已死，吾亡一鉴矣。”
由于泾河老龙、唐太宗李世民、魏徵都与钱塘沙直接相关联，后来，钱塘人就取了唐太宗“以铜为鉴”作为湖名，把金牛湖叫做了铜鉴湖以教育后人。人们逐渐把金牛湖、明圣湖和石湖的名字淡忘了，而铜鉴湖的名声却越叫越响亮。
站在铜鉴湖边远望石龙山，铜鉴湖如一个聚宝盆，很像一把太师椅，左手靠着虎头山（公馆山），右手靠着花山，“太师椅”背靠的就是石龙山，果然风水宝地。明如铜镜，清澈如鉴。在风和日丽的早晨，或在落日余晖中，铜鉴湖的确像一面铜镜。春天的翠绿，夏天的荷花，秋天的层林尽染，冬天的银装倒映，铜鉴湖的春夏秋冬都别有韵味。
铜鉴湖有近三千亩水面，花山、公馆山、昙山是半岛，桃花岛是湖中小岛，还有众多的湖中田岛、花岛、果园岛，坐一只小船，住在铜鉴湖边的民宿里，赏碧波荡漾，登昙山，观铜鉴湖日出，赏茱萸晚霞，听远处慈严寺传来的钟声，闲时摘摘莼菜、采采菱，听听朱熹讲学的故事，喝喝九曲红梅茶，生活是何等的惬意啊。
By Yuan Changwei
Hangzhou was called Qiantang in ancient times, and in the history of its Sixiang area, Tongjian Lake (Tongjian literally means the bronze mirror), covering several square kilometers, was the largest.
By the lakeside is situated Dingnan House, which served as a post house for travelers in ancient times. The mountain next to it is thus called the Post House Mountain, and the village nearby the Post House village.contains its relevant records.mentions, “The Post House village remained a haunt for the literati as late as the Song dynasty [960-1279]…”. Zhou Kuangwu, a poet of the Tang dynasty (618-907), wrote a famous poem for the building, where he stopped on his journey to take the imperial examination.
Born in Xintong, Fuyang, both Dong Bangda (1696-1769)and his son Dong Gao (1740-1818) served as prime ministers during the Qing dynasty (1616-1911). Dong Bangda once taught in Hubu and buried his ancestors in Yaojiawu, a good location said to have blessed the whole family, and that is the origin of “Dong’s Tombs Amid Pine Trees”, one of the ten scenes of Hubu.
铜鉴湖春景之一——油菜花田。Rapeseed flowers bloom in spring around the Tongjian Lake.
铜鉴湖暮色。The Tongjian Lake at dusk.
There is a cave called Qingxu on Tanshan Mountain near the lake, where Zhu Xi (1130-1200), the founder of Neo-Confucianism, gave lectures twice, and he left behind an inscription, his only one in Hangzhou. Hu Jing, a man of letters in the Qing dynasty, mentioned Zhu’s inscription in.
There’s a chessboard stone in Qingxu Cave. Legend has it that a local woodcutter became so entranced with watching immortals playing chess that he forgot to return home. The cave is thus also called the Immortal Cave, and Tanshan Mountain the Chessboard Mountain.
To the northwest of Tanshan Mountain is Hubu village. In the early 17th century, a villager named Feng Laipin passed the imperial examinations at the provincial level and then succeeded at the highest level, and climbed up the officialdom ladder all the way to the Imperial Censor of Shandong. Apart from Feng, Sixiang also produced Ge Yinliang, Chen Zhihuang and Zheng Shangyou,three successful candidates in the highest imperial examinations,and they were collectively known as the “Four Talents of Sixiang”,a proof of the advanced education in the area back at that time.
Many household names left famous works in this fair land.For example, Yang Wanli (1127-1206) once put up somewhere on the shore during a trip to a salt plant in Yangcun village. He wrote a poem “Morning Cooking in the Yangcun Village”, seeing the sail pulled down and wisps of smoke rising from chimneys. In it he mentioned Hubu and the tea native to the lake. Fan Zhongyan(989-1052), who was once prefect of Hangzhou, wrote the poem“Fengshui Cave”, “It’s been thousands of years since the departure of immortals, and ifind comfort in the thought that Qin people are unable to return. Peach blossoms are nowhere to be found when spring comes to an end, and all that is left is running water in the mortal world.”
In ancient times, the road by Tongjian Lake was the only official route connecting Hangzhou and Fuyang. When in charge of Hangzhou, Bai Juyi (772-846) and Su Dongpo (1037-1101)often took this road to Fuyang, or to Fengshui Cave, Tongjian Lake or Tanshan Mountain, where they would meet friends and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Su once stayed at Dingnan House during his tour of the cave and mentioned this place in one of his poems, and two lines from it — “People in the world rush for fame and wealth; where else can ifind anyone who treats me like you”— were later used to frame him. He would stay at farmhouses in Sixiang during his frequent trips to Hubu and was no stranger to local customs, as evidenced in his “Two Birds in Fengshui Cave”.
As for Bai, during his carefree excursion to Ende Temple near the cave, he was on intimate terms with Huiri, an eminent monk there, and never thought about returning home. After being transferred to northern China, he missed the bamboo shoots in Hubu and the water shield and bass in the lake so much that he even wrote poems for them. There’s a large body of water in the lake for growing the authentic West Lake water shield. “Tongjian Lake Brand” water shield once sold well in Japan and South Korea.The long-standing West Lake water shield features some of the poems written by Su and Bai. It’s said that Emperor Qianlong(1711-1799) would have a thick soup made of water shield every time he stopped in Hangzhou during his inspection trip to the south of the Yangtze River, and would have the vegetable sent to the palace regularly.
Tongjian Lake got its name from the relationship between Li Shimin (598-649), or Emperor Taizong of the Tang dynasty(618-907), and Wei Zheng (580-643) his prime minister. After the Incident at Xuanwu Gate, Li came into power and started his reign. He was open-minded and would put aside the past unpleasantness between him and the particularly talented. A case in point is that he even put Wei Zheng, once an aide to the former crown prince, in an important position. Wei was known for being outspoken and never flinching from admonishing the emperor,and was thus treasured by Li.
铜鉴湖雪景。The Tongjian Lake on a snowy day.
There are countless stories about how Wei remonstrated with the emperor. He even embarrassed the emperor many times,but was still valued, which reflects Li’s open-mindedness and extraordinary magnanimity. That Wei refused to make Li look good is recorded in historical books and also mentioned in, which is closely related to the legend of Tongjian Lake. It’s said that Yuan Tian’gang (573-645), a semi-immortal who had a shopfront on the street of Chang’an (present-day Xi’an city, Shaanxi province), was regarded as a living immortal for being able to see the events of the past and future. His predictions were so accurate that a fisherman who consulted him returned with a full load of fish every day. Things continued like this for a while until the dragon king realized that the aquatic life was at risk of being wiped out. Therefore, he morphed into a scholar and came to roust Yuan.
The dragon king asked Yuan to predict the next day’s weather.Yuan replied that there would be “three inches of rain inside the city and three feet outside” at three quarters past the noon.After checking, the dragon king found out that everything was exactly the same as foretold by Yuan. He talked the Rain God into changing the amount of rain. An unprecedented flood thus swept across the whole city, inundating many residential houses and even washing away the Town God, who complained to the Jade Emperor. The Jade Emperor later found out about the scheme and was so angry that he decided to behead the dragon king, and the officer supervising the execution was Wei Zheng, who was known for being just and stern. The dragon king then begged Emperor Taizong, with whom he was on pretty good terms, to intercede for him. The emperor agreed, believing that the dragon king would be pardoned once the execution was stalled on. So the emperor invited Wei for lunch. By the time for execution, Wei had passed out drunk. Seeing Wei was unable to go anywhere, the emperor was relieved. However, something unexpected happened; Wei supervised over the beheading of the dragon king in his dream.Feeling aggrieved, the dragon king often appeared in the dreams of Emperor Taizong, who felt apologetic, and that led to the story that the emperor sent the Xuanzang (602-664) on a mission to the west to fetch Buddhist scriptures and release the soul of the dragon from purgatory. Legend has it that the beheaded dragon king appeared by the Yangtze River in the form of sand dunes, which later became what we call Sixiang today.
Because of the sand dunes, Yunquan Mountain and the Post House Mountain were connected, and at their foot formed a lake as clear and flat as a mirror. According to historical records, this lake was known as Jinniu Lake (the Golden Buffalo Lake) because a golden buffalo was detected there. It was also called Mingsheng Lake or Shihu Lake (the Stone Lake) because it was located at the foot of the Stone Dragon Mountain. Emperor Taizong exerted himself to govern the country and humbly took advice. He showed great respect to Wei, who admonished as before. Their combined efforts finally helped usher in a flourishing age.
Later, saddened by Wei’s death, the emperor said emotionally,“Take bronze as a mirror to straighten one’s clothes; take history as a mirror to tell the rise and fall; take people as a mirror to know one’s gain and loss. Now Wei Zheng is dead, and I lost one mirror.” People in Qiantang thus named this lake after the emperor’s remark to educate future generations. Previous names gradually sank into oblivion, whereas “Tongjian” (bronze mirror)got more accepted.
You will find that the lake looks like a treasure trove, or a grand master’s chair, with the left arm against the Post House Mountain,the right one against Huashan Mountain, and its back against the Stone Dragon Mountain. It’s as bright and clear as a bronze mirror on a sunny morning or under the setting sun. With a lush green spring, a lotus-embellished summer, a crimson autumn, and a snow-covered winter, the lake has something special to offer in each season. With an area of nearly 200 hectares, the lake is right at the lake center is the Peach Blossom Islet. You can stay in a B&B by the lake, lap up the ripples of clear water on a boat, climb Tanshan Mountain, see the morning sun rise above the lake, enjoy the glorious sunset, and listen to the bells from Ciyan Temple in the distance. When at leisure, try pick some water chestnuts and water shield, listen to stories about Zhu Xi’s teaching and sip at Jiuqu Hongmei Black Tea. How leisurely it is!
铜鉴湖。Tongjian Lake.
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